In the 17th century the engine of trade in luxury silks made in Safavid Iran and Mughal India was the international Armenian community. Thanks to their mercantile skills and Christian faith, the Armenians had a successful network in Europe and Asia. Cloth that was sold in lengths in Europe was then fashioned into church vestments such as this one. The fact that the hood is sewn under the orphrey appears to indicate that the piece was assembled in Rome, where this practice is typical. The regular rows of blossoms on a precious metal ground recall Mughal Indian textiles of the second half of the 17th century, while certain technical details of the weaving and application of the metal to the silk core is more typical of Iranian textiles. The stylistic closeness of the two point to the popularity of these silks in both Iran and India.
Credit: Purchase, Friends of Islamic Art Gift, in honor of Sheila Canby, 2019