Milly Gown worn by Michelle Obama

As first lady, Michelle Robinson Obama alternated between off-the-rack clothes, sold by American companies, like J. Crew, or more expensive pieces by established designers. She also commissioned emerging talent, such as the Chinese-born, New York City-based Jason Wu, who was just twenty-six when he created the ensemble that she wore to her husband’s first inauguration in 2009.

In 2017, as she began the process of preparing for her official portrait to be made for the National Portrait Gallery, Obama selected a cotton poplin maxi dress by New York City designer Michelle Smith, founder of the fashion brand Milly. Not only did the material speak to the history of plantation agriculture in the U.S., but the geometric color block pattern is reminiscent of the African American quilting tradition and reminded artist Amy Sherald of the quilts of Gee’s Bend.

Loan courtesy of Michelle Obama